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Fabulous Peruvian Cuisine in the Richmond

Coming home from the Monet in Normandy exhibit at the Legion of Honor (magnificent! amazing!) on Saturday, my friend and I were hungry for a lunch or brunch and we found an absolute treasure, Karamanduka, Peruvian cuisine, at 18th and Clement, one block from Geary.  A free glass of sangria (two maximum per table) is available with brunch or dinner, if you ask.

Between us, we had a heavenly Peruvian lunch of Cerviche de Lenguado (fresh halibut in a rocoto chili cream, lime juice, ginger, Cuzco corn, yams and cancha),  Causa Tres Estilos (aji amarillo, Botija olives, and roasted pimientos infused mini Yukon gold potato with crab meat, shrimp and roasted chicken), Tamal Criollo (handmade Peruvian dried corn tamale, stuffed with roast pork), and Tiradito de Camarones y Pesacado (butterflied prawns and halibut, marinated in lime juice, ginger, rocoto paste and a touch of Pisco, camote).  The amuse bouche was a tapinade of Botija olives (very purple!), herb mayo, and crispy, salted fava beans (prepared like corn nuts). 

The weekend brunch menu looks very interesting and everything $8-$9.50:  Crab Benedict, classic Eggs Benedict, Tortilla Maritima (open-faced omelet with shrimp, bay scallops, tomatoes, cilantro, roasted peppers, topped with Jack cheese and salsa criolla), Tortilla Vegetariana (open-faced vegetable omelet with mushrooms, squash, spinach, tomatoes and cheese, topped with sour cream), Salchicha con Huevos (smoked Longaniza sausage with mushrooms, tomatoes, eggs and cheese), Torrejas aka French Toast (traditional French toast with Algarrobina scented marscapone cheese with crushed macadamia nutes, drizzled with warm ginger maple syrup), Crab and Avocado Sandwich (Dungeness and Blue crab meat, fresh avocado, spinach, cilantro, aioli and cheese on a warm French bread, with garlic fries), Pan con Lomito a la Caserola (Peruvian steak sandwich with tomatoes, onions and cilantro on a warm French bread and garlic fries), Butifarra (classic Peruvian pork sandwich, thin sliced marinated leg of pork with mustard and salsa criolla on a warm French bread), and Pan con Chicharron (Peruvian deep fried pork and sweet potato sandwich, topped with crisp red onions on a warm French bread).  Salads, soups, and more small plates round out the brunch menu.

The dinner menu has many of the small plates, soups, salads, and cerviches which are available at weekend brunch, as well as some very interesting main entrees priced $14-$17, such as Pescado al Toque de Camilo (grilled fresh swordfish marinated in fresh herbs in a seafood sherry, peppers, cream sauce, served with rice), Chuletas al Estilo Papa y Mama (smoked pork chops with sautéed asparagus and wild mushrooms), Arroz con Mariscos (classic Peruvian rice dish with clams, mussels, scallops, prawns, octopus in a cilantro rice, shrimp broth and dark beer), Bistec a lo Pobre (flame grilled New York, Tacu Tacu, grilled potatoes, eggs, fried plantain, topped with salsa criolla).  Too many more choices to list here.

Desserts also looked very interesting.  Chocolate Turron (a decadent chocolate treat with raisins and walnuts), Peruvian Bread Pudding (fresh baked bread with honey and sugar cane served a la mode), Platano al Roberto (carmelized bananas served with Lucuma ice cream rolled in pecan pieces topped off with a brown sugar brandy/picso glaze), Arroz con Leche (rice pudding with toasted coconut and cinnamon), Flan de Naranja (crème caramel with a touch of orange liqueur), and Alfajores (Peruvian cookies with dulce de leche filling).

Parking was “no problem”, to be distinguished from the busier portions of Clement St.  The take-home menu lists “free parking.”  The amenities in the dining room were noteworthy:  cloth napkins, comfortable chairs, tables with enough space between them so you don’t feel the stranger’s chair pushing against you, or hear the details of his conversation.  Service was attentive and professional.  Jorge, the owner/chef, came to our table to ask if we liked our meal – he seemed so eager to please and answer our questions. 

Karamanduka, 1801 Clement St. 415-422-0502, Dinner: 5-10 p.m., Brunch Sat. & Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.  Closed Mondays.            - Nancy Spero